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Amundsen’s Gjøa Through the Northwest Passage (1903–1906)

Roald Amundsen bought the small herring boat Gjøa and in 1903 slipped out of Christiania at night to escape his creditors. He spent two winters at a harbour on King William Island, now Gjoa Haven, learning from the Netsilik Inuit how to travel and dress in the Arctic, then threaded the shallow channels westward. After a third winter on the Yukon coast he reached Nome in August 1906, the first to sail the North-West Passage.

15,159 km mapped11 stops1,221 days (about 3.5 years)

Roald Amundsen arrives at Nome, Alaska
Frank H. Nowell Photograph Collection, 1901-1908. ASL-PCA-48 · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

Route Map of the Gjøa expedition

1.3
  • Route from recorded positions
  • 1Numbered stop (see the itinerary)
  • Ship on the map: steamship (20th century)

Lines are drawn by YearMaps between the recorded stops, kept at sea around Natural Earth coastlines. They show the order and general track of the voyage, not the exact course steered. How the maps are made.

About the Gjøa expedition

Gjøa [jøː.ɑ] is a museum ship and was the first vessel to transit the Northwest Passage. With a crew of six, Roald Amundsen traversed the passage in a three-year journey, finishing in 1906.

From Wikipedia: Gjøa (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Itinerary: 11 Stops

In order of the voyage. Numbers match the map; select a stop to show it there.

  1. Christiania (Oslo)

    Departure

    59.90° N, 10.73° E

    The Gjøa leaves at midnight in a rainstorm, ahead of a creditor.

  2. Godhavn, Disko Island

    Port of call

    69.25° N, 53.53° W

    Dogs and supplies in Greenland.

  3. Beechey Island

    Port of call

    74.71° N, 91.85° W

    Amundsen visits the Franklin graves and takes magnetic readings.

  4. Gjoa Haven, King William Island

    Port of call

    68.63° N, 95.88° W

    Two winters at "the finest little harbour in the world", among the Netsilik Inuit, while the expedition measures the magnetic pole.

  5. Simpson Strait

    Passage

    68.55° N, 97.50° W

    The Gjøa threads the shallow strait south of King William Island.

  6. Cambridge Bay

    Passage

    69.12° N, 105.05° W

    Through Queen Maud Gulf and Dease Strait.

  7. Meeting the Charles Hansson

    Event

    69.50° N, 125.00° W

    A whaler from San Francisco: the passage is made.

  8. King Point, Yukon

    Port of call

    69.10° N, 137.95° W

    Ice forces a third winter. Amundsen travels 800 km overland to Eagle, Alaska, to telegraph the news.

  9. Point Barrow

    Passage

    71.39° N, 156.48° W

    The Gjøa rounds the north tip of Alaska.

  10. Nome

    Port of call

    64.50° N, 165.40° W

    Nome’s crowd greets the first ship through the North-West Passage.

  11. San Francisco

    Arrival

    37.80° N, 122.45° W

    The Gjøa stayed in Golden Gate Park until 1972, when she was returned to Norway.

Sources: Amundsen’s The North West Passage (1908), via Wikipedia: Gjøa.

Amundsen’s Gjøa Through the Northwest Passage in Depth

Purchase by Amundsen

On March 28, 1901, Amundsen bought her from Asbjørn Sexe of Ullensvang, Norway, for his forthcoming expedition to the Arctic Ocean. Gjøa was much smaller than vessels used by other Arctic expeditions, but Amundsen intended to live off the limited resources of the land and sea through which he was to travel, and reasoned that the land could not sustain a larger crew (this had been a possible cause of the catastrophic failure of Franklin's lost expedition fifty years previously). Her shallow draught would help her traverse the shoals of the Arctic straits. Perhaps most importantly, the ageing ship was all that Amundsen (who was financing his expedition largely by spending his inheritance) could afford.

Amundsen had little experience of Arctic sailing, and so decided to undertake a training expedition before braving the Arctic ice. He engaged Hans Christian Johannsen, her previous owner, and a small crew, and sailed from Tromsø in April 1901. The next five months were spent sealing on the pack ice of the Barents Sea. Following their return to Tromsø in September, Amundsen set about remedying the deficiencies in Gjøa that the trip had exposed. He had a little 13 horsepower (9.7 kilowatts) marine paraffin motor, connected with a winch, for navigation in light winds and to facilitate handlings. Much of the winter was spent upgrading her ice sheathing, as Amundsen knew she would spend several winters iced-in.

Journey through the Northwest Passage

In the spring of 1902, her refit complete, Amundsen sailed Gjøa to Christiania (now Oslo), the capital of Norway. At this time Norway was still in a union with Sweden, and Amundsen hoped the nationalistic spirit which was sweeping the country would attract sponsors willing to underwrite the expedition's growing costs. After much wrangling, and a donation from the Swedish King, Oscar II, he succeeded. By the time Amundsen returned, Norway had gained its independence, and he and his crew were among the new country's first national heroes.

Amundsen served as the expedition leader and Gjøa's master. His crew were Godfred Hansen, a Danish naval lieutenant and Gjøa's first officer; Helmer Hanssen, second officer, an experienced ice pilot who later accompanied Amundsen on subsequent expeditions; Anton Lund, an experienced sealing captain; Peder Ristvedt, chief engineer; Gustav Juel Wiik, second engineer, a gunner in the Royal Norwegian Navy; and Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, cook.

Gjøa left the Oslofjord on June 16, 1903, and made for the Labrador Sea west of Greenland. From there she crossed Baffin Bay and navigated the narrow, icy straits of the Arctic Archipelago. By late September Gjøa was west of the Boothia Peninsula and began to encounter worsening weather and sea ice. Amundsen put her into a natural harbour on the south shore of King William Island; by October 3 she was iced in.

San Francisco

Rather than sail her round Cape Horn and back to Norway, the Norwegian American community in San Francisco prevailed on Amundsen to sell Gjøa to them.

The ship was donated to the city of San Francisco, and the ship was dragged up the beach to the northwest corner of Golden Gate Park, surrounded by a low fence and put on display. Amundsen knew that because of the fame that his exploits aboard Gjøa had earned, he would be able to gain access to Nansen's ship Fram which had been custom-built for ice work and was owned by the Norwegian state. Therefore, Amundsen left Gjøa in San Francisco. He and his crew traveled back to Norway by commercial ship. Of the original expedition members, only Wiik failed to return to Norway, because he had died of illness during the third Arctic winter.

Souvenir hunters and vandals necessitated a fence be erected and a caretaker hired — the gentleman lived in the ship and was enumerated there during the 1910 United States Census...The city installed a seal tank behind the stern of the ship and, according to the Call, the Alaskan fur seal that occupied it acted as an additional nighttime guardian of the boat...Occasionally, the city would be spurred to make repairs and give the Gjøa a paint job (a 1968 visit to the city by Norway’s King Olav provided motivation for one such spruce-up), but generally the vessel that survived the crushing ice of the Arctic seas was a helpless victim to neglect and vandalism.

Sections adapted from Wikipedia: Gjøa (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Frequently Asked Questions

How long did the Gjøa expedition take?

It lasted 1,221 days (about 3.5 years), from 16 June 1903 to 19 October 1906.

How far did the Gjøa expedition travel?

The route as mapped here, through all 11 stops, is about 15,159 km (8,185 nautical miles). It follows the recorded stops at sea and is a reconstruction, so the true distance sailed was longer.

Who led the Gjøa expedition?

Roald Amundsen, sponsored by Amundsen himself, with support from Fridtjof Nansen and King Oscar II.

What ship was used on the Gjøa expedition?

Gjøa.

Where did the Gjøa expedition start and end?

It started at Christiania (Oslo) (16 June 1903) and ended at San Francisco (19 October 1906).

What did the Gjøa expedition achieve?

First ship to sail the whole Northwest Passage.