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Second Voyage of HMS Beagle (1831–1836)

HMS Beagle left Plymouth in 1831 for a five-year survey of the coasts of South America, with the 22-year-old Charles Darwin aboard as a gentleman naturalist. While FitzRoy charted Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, Darwin rode inland collecting fossils, rocks and animals. Five weeks in the Galápagos and the long voyage home round the world gave him the material for On the Origin of Species.

68,256 km mapped26 stops1,741 days (about 5 years)

HMS Beagle by Conrad Martens
Conrad Martens (1801 - 21 August 1878) · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

Route Map of the Beagle’s second voyage

1.3
  • Route from recorded positions
  • 1Numbered stop (see the itinerary)
  • Ship on the map: full-rigged three-masted ship (18th and 19th centuries)

Lines are drawn by YearMaps between the recorded stops, kept at sea around Natural Earth coastlines. They show the order and general track of the voyage, not the exact course steered. How the maps are made.

About the Beagle’s second voyage

The second survey expedition of HMS Beagle took place from 27 December 1831 to 2 October 1836. Robert FitzRoy, the newest commander of Beagle, had thought of the advantages of having someone onboard who could investigate geology, and sought a naturalist to accompany them as a supernumerary. At the age of 22, the graduate Charles Darwin hoped to see the tropics before becoming a parson, and accepted the opportunity. He was greatly influenced by reading Charles Lyell's Principles of Geology during the voyage. By the end of the expedition, Darwin had made his name as a geologist, and fossil collector, and the publication of his journal (later known as The Voyage of the Beagle) gave him wide renown as a writer.

Beagle sailed across the Atlantic Ocean, and then carried out detailed hydrographic surveys around the coasts of southern South America, returning via Tahiti and Australia, after having circumnavigated the Earth. The initial offer to Darwin told him the voyage would last two years; it lasted almost five.

From Wikipedia: Second voyage of HMS Beagle (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Itinerary: 26 Stops

In order of the voyage. Numbers match the map; select a stop to show it there.

  1. Plymouth

    Departure

    50.36° N, 4.14° W

    After weeks of gales the Beagle finally sails.

  2. Santa Cruz de Tenerife

    Passage

    28.47° N, 16.25° W

    Quarantine for cholera keeps Darwin from landing.

  3. Praia, Cape Verde

    Port of call

    14.92° N, 23.51° W

    Darwin’s first geology: a band of shells in the cliffs of St. Jago.

  4. St. Paul’s Rocks

    Landfall

    0.92° N, 29.35° W

    Darwin lands on the bare rocks in mid-Atlantic.

  5. Salvador, Bahia

    Port of call

    12.97° S, 38.51° W

    Darwin’s first tropical forest, and his first sight of slavery, which appals him.

  6. Rio de Janeiro

    Port of call

    22.90° S, 43.17° W

    Darwin spends three months inland.

  7. Montevideo

    Port of call

    34.90° S, 56.20° W

    Base for the survey of the River Plate.

  8. Punta Alta, Bahía Blanca

    Event

    38.88° S, 62.08° W

    Darwin digs up fossils of giant ground sloths and other extinct mammals.

  9. Tierra del Fuego

    Port of call

    54.90° S, 67.60° W

    FitzRoy returns three Fuegians he had taken to England.

  10. Port Louis, Falkland Islands

    Port of call

    51.53° S, 58.13° W

    Britain has just reasserted control of the islands.

  11. Valparaíso

    Port of call

    33.03° S, 71.63° W

    After two years surveying Patagonia, the Beagle reaches the Pacific through the Strait of Magellan.

  12. Valdivia

    Event

    39.80° S, 73.25° W

    Darwin feels the great Concepción earthquake and later sees land raised by it.

  13. Callao

    Port of call

    12.05° S, 77.15° W

    Political unrest keeps the crew close to the ship.

  14. San Cristóbal, Galápagos

    Landfall

    0.90° S, 89.60° W

    Five weeks in the islands: giant tortoises, marine iguanas and the mockingbirds that differ from island to island.

  15. Tahiti

    Port of call

    17.50° S, 149.50° W

    Ten days on the island.

  16. Bay of Islands, New Zealand

    Port of call

    35.20° S, 174.15° E

    Darwin is not impressed.

  17. Sydney

    Port of call

    33.86° S, 151.21° E

    Darwin travels inland to Bathurst and sees a platypus.

  18. Hobart

    Port of call

    42.88° S, 147.33° E

    A visit to Van Diemen’s Land.

  19. King George Sound

    Port of call

    35.05° S, 117.90° E

    Last stop in Australia.

  20. Cocos (Keeling) Islands

    Event

    12.12° S, 96.88° E

    Darwin tests his theory of how coral atolls form on sinking islands.

  21. Port Louis, Mauritius

    Port of call

    20.16° S, 57.50° E

    Darwin rides across the island.

  22. Cape Town

    Port of call

    33.90° S, 18.42° E

    Darwin meets the astronomer John Herschel.

  23. St. Helena

    Port of call

    15.93° S, 5.72° W

    Darwin lodges near Napoleon’s tomb.

  24. Salvador, Bahia

    Port of call

    12.97° S, 38.51° W

    FitzRoy recrosses the Atlantic to check his longitudes.

  25. Azores (Terceira)

    Port of call

    38.65° N, 27.20° W

    Last call before home.

  26. Falmouth

    Arrival

    50.15° N, 5.07° W

    Darwin leaves the ship and goes straight home to Shrewsbury.

Sources: FitzRoy’s Narrative and Darwin’s Journal and Remarks (1839), via Wikipedia: Second voyage of HMS Beagle.

Second Voyage of HMS Beagle in Depth

Aims of the expedition

When the Napoleonic Wars ended in 1815, the Pax Britannica saw seafaring nations competing in colonisation and rapid industrialisation. The logistics of supply and growing commerce needed reliable information about sea routes, but existing nautical charts were incomplete and inaccurate. Spanish American wars of independence ended Spain's monopoly over trade, and the UK's 1825 commercial treaty with Argentina recognised its independence, increasing the naval and commercial significance of the east coast of South America. The Admiralty instructed Commander King to make an accurate hydrographic survey of "the Southern Coasts of the Peninsula of South America, from the southern entrance of the River Plata, round to Chilóe; and of Tierra del Fuego". As Darwin wrote of his voyage, "The object of the expedition was to complete the survey of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, commenced under Captain King in 1826 to 1830—to survey the shores of Chile, Peru, and of some islands in the Pacific—and to carry a chain of chronometrical measurements round the World." The expeditions also had diplomatic objectives, visiting disputed territories.

An Admiralty memorandum set out the detailed instructions. The first requirement was to resolve disagreements in the earlier surveys about the longitude of Rio de Janeiro, which was essential as the base point for meridian distances.

Context and preparations

The previous survey expedition to South America involved HMS Adventure and HMS Beagle under the overall command of the Australian Commander Phillip Parker King. During the survey, Beagle's captain, Pringle Stokes, committed suicide and command of the ship was given to the young aristocrat Robert FitzRoy, a nephew of George FitzRoy, 4th Duke of Grafton. When a ship's boat was taken by the natives of Tierra del Fuego, FitzRoy tried taking some of them hostage, and after this failed he got occupants of a canoe to put another on the ship in exchange for buttons. He brought four of them back to England to be given a Christian education, with the idea that they could eventually become missionaries. One died of smallpox. After Beagle's return to Devonport dockyard on 14 October 1830, Captain King retired.

The 27-year-old FitzRoy had hopes of commanding a second expedition to continue the South American survey, but when he heard that the Lords of the Admiralty no longer supported this, he grew concerned about how to return the Fuegians. He made an agreement with the owner of a small merchant-vessel to take himself and five others back to South America, but a kind uncle heard of this and contacted the Admiralty. Soon afterwards, FitzRoy heard that he was to be appointed commander of HMS Chanticleer to go to Tierra del Fuego, but due to her poor condition, Beagle was substituted.

Voyage

Charles Darwin had been told that Beagle was expected to sail about the end of September 1831, but fitting out took longer. The Admiralty Instructions were received on 14 November, and on 23 November, she was moved to anchorage, ready to depart.

Beagle touched at Madeira for a confirmed position without stopping. Then on 6 January, it reached Tenerife in the Canary Islands but was quarantined there because of cholera in England.

In South America, Beagle carried out its survey work going to and fro along the coasts to allow careful measurement and rechecking.

Darwin made long journeys inland with travelling companions from the locality.

A week out of Lima, Beagle reached the Galápagos Islands on 15 September 1835. The next day Captain FitzRoy dropped anchor near where the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is now sited, at Chatham Island.

FitzRoy's instructions from the Admiralty required a detailed geological survey of a circular coral atoll to investigate how coral reefs formed, particularly whether they rose from the bottom of the sea or the summits of extinct volcanoes, and the effects of tides measured with specially constructed gauges.

Return

On the stormy night of 2 October 1836, immediately after arriving in Falmouth, Darwin set off on the Royal Mail coach from Fish Strand Hill (a plaque now marks the site) for the two-day journey to his family home, The Mount House in Shrewsbury, Shropshire. As he wrote to FitzRoy, the countryside they passed was "beautiful & cheerful", and though the "stupid people on the coach did not seem to think the fields one bit greener than usual", he now knew "that the wide world does not contain so happy a prospect as the rich cultivated land of England". In April 1835 Darwin had written that he was undecided whether to "sleep at the Lion, the first night," when he arrived by the daily Wonder coach, "or disturb you all in the dead of the night". He arrived late at night on 4 October 1836, and at breakfast the next morning greeted his family, to their delight and celebrations. His sisters assured him he did "not look the least different", but his father's first reaction was to tell them "Why, the shape of his head is quite altered." After time spent catching up with family, Darwin went on to Cambridge on 15 October and sought Henslow's advice on organising the description and cataloguing of his collections.

Darwin's father gave him an allowance that enabled him to put aside other careers.

Expert publications on Darwin's collections

Darwin was a collector and used the reference books he had on the ship. It was now the province of recognised expert specialists to establish which specimens were unknown, and make their considered taxonomic decisions on defining and naming new species.

Richard Owen had expertise in comparative anatomy, and his professional judgements revealed a succession of similar species in the same locality, giving Darwin insights which he would later recall as being central to his new views. Owen met Darwin on 29 October 1836 and quickly took on the task of describing these new fossils. At that time the only fully described fossil mammals from South America were three species of Mastodon and the gigantic Megatherium. On 9 November, Darwin wrote to his sister that "Some of them are turning out great treasures." The near-complete skeleton from Punta Alta was apparently very closely allied to anteaters, but of the extraordinary size of a small horse. The rhinoceros-sized head bought for two shillings near the city of Mercedes was not a megatherium, but "as far as they can guess, must have been a gnawing animal. Conceive a Rat or a Hare of such a size— What famous Cats they ought to have had in those days!"

Over the following years, Owen published descriptions of the most important fossils, naming several as new species.

Sections adapted from Wikipedia: Second voyage of HMS Beagle (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Second Voyage of HMS Beagle: Key Facts

Key facts about Second Voyage of HMS Beagle
Start time27 December 1831
End time2 October 1836
Start pointPlymouth
DestinationFalmouth
ParticipantsCharles Darwin, John Clements Wickham, Robert McCormick, Conrad Martens, Robert Fitzroy

Facts from Wikidata Q1564366 (CC0).

Frequently Asked Questions

How long did the Beagle’s second voyage take?

It lasted 1,741 days (about 5 years), from 27 December 1831 to 2 October 1836.

How far did the Beagle’s second voyage travel?

The route as mapped here, through all 26 stops, is about 68,256 km (36,855 nautical miles). It follows the recorded stops at sea and is a reconstruction, so the true distance sailed was longer.

Who led the Beagle’s second voyage?

Captain Robert FitzRoy, sponsored by Royal Navy (Hydrographic Office).

What ship was used on the Beagle’s second voyage?

HMS Beagle.

Where did the Beagle’s second voyage start and end?

It started at Plymouth (27 December 1831) and ended at Falmouth (2 October 1836).

What did the Beagle’s second voyage achieve?

Hydrographic survey of South America; Darwin’s observations that led to the theory of evolution by natural selection.